‹ Day 9

Samegrelo & the supra

2-min read

Samegrelo — Megrelia — is the lush lowland we descend into from the mountains, and by common Georgian consent its cooking is the country’s spiciest and among its best: elarji (cheese-pulled cornmeal), gebzhalia (cheese in minted sour cream), and the original fiery adjika.

Today it hosts our supra — the Georgian feast that is less a meal than a ceremony, steered by a tamada (toastmaster) through a rising arc of toasts, songs and refilled glasses.

🎒 Pace yourself from the first glass — the toasts do not stop, and “to the bottom” is only for when the tamada declares it.

The art of the toast →